Tokara

If fine dining is dead, someone forgot to tell Richard Carstens. His food is the work of a genius. A creative streak has been refined and sharpened, and he’s now producing food that must rate amongst the best in the country. Asian flavours continue to inspire. Miso-marinated ostrich is paired with creamy duck liver parfait, banana and a teriyaki truffle butter. Tempura line fish is catapulted to new levels with ginger and cashew nut emulsions, sushi rice balls and dots of carrot puree. Delicate mushroom ravioli floats in a parmesan and garlic broth, topped with soya-glazed tomatoes. An interpretation of sashimi will leave you smiling: dried watermelon (with the colour and texture of thinly sliced tuna) is dressed with toasted sesame seeds, wasabi yoghurt and green tea powder. It’s phenomenal stuff. Calamari with squid-ink brioche and a parsley puree is lifted with a delicate lemon velouté. The food caters for all markets too, with a bobotie-spiced sirloin offering a seriously generous and spicy steak option. Throughout the menu Richard displays a very rare ability to play around with textures, and the desserts are where he really gets to show this off. A deconstructed malva pudding pulls together fluffy sponge, Amarula ice-cream, apricots and hazelnuts. A take on an apple pie involves poached apples sandwiched between delicate pastry, and finished with celery ice-cream and buttermilk sorbet. Plating is beautiful too: understated, clean and elegant.

With Richard pushing the envelope in the kitchen, sommelier Jaap-Henk Koelewijn more than matches him with some creative and spot-on pairings. He offers up great advice on the extensive wine list, which showcases Tokara’s entire range (with by-the-glass options), as well as some of its neighbours. A handful of European estates completes a stellar list.

Polished and impressively clued-up on every dish – quite a feat considering the complexity of the food.

A modern building of steel and geometric lines is softened by thick carpeting and an inviting fireplace for winter. Once inside, you’re greeted with easily one of the best views in the country: the dramatic landscape across the Stellenbosch valley and back towards False Bay. Massive windows enhance the views, with ingenious half-moon tables (for two) pushed right up against the glass. Take some time to appreciate the art.

Arrive early (or stay late) to enjoy a drink at the bar. It’s breathtaking and hugely underrated. (AF, October 2011)

Gerhard Kotze
31-Dec-2011

Lunch on 30 Dec. Starters delicious. Only one fish dish available out of 6 main courses - kingklip was extremely bland. Really uninspiring. This was the main reason for the afternoon to be a disappointment.

Decor has a very poor fit with glass, wood and concrete structure of restaurant. The wooden tables and upholstered chairs look as if it would be better suited to an old style inn. Carpet dirty. Service efficient.

All in all 5 out 10.

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